Valentino’s latest couture collection was an example of accurate decadence. Set in a golden gallery, showcasing golden dresses, golden nine-inch heels, and even golden faces, the opulence was evident. In variation, creative director Pierpaolo Piccioli’s fall offerings are deprecated. The designer opted for a quieter parade, whispering sweet words. In many ways, Piccioli aimed to tap into not only what we collectively need as fashion consumers, but also what we lack as a society: culture.
A tribute to the city of Milan, the show was presented at the Piccolo Theater, ambassador of the country’s rich relationship with Italian theater. With closures of public spaces around the world, the choice to reopen the theater to feature Valentino’s audience-less runway serves as a hopeful reminder of the arts we hope to enjoy once the pandemic subsides. As stated in his press release, Valentino considers it “a daring, almost punk move” to choose the venue. Considering Valentino’s iconic rockstuds, the alternative choice makes sense.
We’ve grown used to Piccioli’s penchant for the house’s vibrant fuchsia and iconic Valentino red, but the monochrome color palette of this collection invited us to a new sense of intimacy. The clothes featured a play of sheer, featuring laser-cut textiles and sheer lace washes, simultaneously protecting and exposing the body. It’s a leggy runway, exacerbated by cropped micro-hems and a welcome return to pointy stiletto heels. The intentional layering and crisp silhouettes clarify her vision. Not a collar seems out of place. It’s a refreshing palette cleanser that encourages us to think about the details, of which there is a lot to think about.
