Lights, camera, Chanel. This morning, the Hollywood Hills visit to Paris as Chanel put her name in the highlight for the house’s Spring-Summer show. Per Virginie Viard: “This collection is a tribute to the inspiration of House Gabrielle Chanel and Karl Lagerfeld who have dressed so many actresses in films and in real life.” But Viard didn’t want to make direct recommendations to vintage cuts or manicure knock-offs from characters seen in the movies, but instead sought to induce the air of a celebrity.
To accompany the show, Chanel called up for the help of Inez van Lamsweerde and Vinoodh Matadin to create a visual experience, showing images and a short film motivated by the house’s special relationship with the actresses, both on screen and off screen.
“I was thinking of the actresses at the photoshoot, on the red carpet, that moment when they are disputed by the photographers: their faces a little disturbed, their attitude a little off from the outfits they wear,” explained Viard. The collection draws on the relationship between an actress’ real life and the role she plays.
References to the big screen ranged from fine (a scarf tucked under a Grace Kelly coat) to obvious (a skirt printed with the words “Coco Chanel Presents”). But there was a youth injected everywhere, presented as pedal pushers or upward hems of flippy skirts and dresses. A distance accompanied the ’80s shoulder fit. Evening dresses were adapted to Sunset Boulevard, and throughout there was a healthy dose of saccharinity to the Pretty in Pink outfits that belong to a protagonist of the Teenage Queen. Molly Ringwald and Regina George would look natural in these bubblegum cardigans.
The boldness of this seventies look collection was all in the details. The jewels in particular moved away from the strands of pearls and doubled the costume aspect; The flap bags have been reinterpreted as massive pendants and link chains emblazoned with the inscription “forever” above the brand’s iconic c’s. I’m not sure how famous birdcage headbands will be next season, but Emily in Paris got into the chat.
Chanel’s history with the Hollywood it-girls is well documented, and if the front row of the show was any sign, it will continue regularly. Dressed in white masks handed out at the event, attendees included Marion Cottillard, Jennie from Blackpink and Kristen Stewart.
