When you think of Fendi, a lot of things come to mind. The historic Italian house has a heritage that cuts across house codes, without harsh definitions, defined by the Fendi family and the tenure of Karl Lagerfeld. The addition of Kim Jones as Creative Director in 2020, who showcased her debut collection last sewing season, continues the tradition of keeping her in the family.
“The Fendi family consisted of hard-working, smart women, and that’s what I wanted to celebrate,” Jones notes in the brand’s press release. “A mighty dynasty” —and an immaculately dressed dynasty. Shades of camel are lavishly layered in contrasting textiles. Boucle wool trench coats are draped over rich suede and silk blouses delicately monogrammed with Lagerfeld’s eponymous logo, the monogram “Kaligraphy”. A house known for its furs, one standout piece is a woven herringbone coat edged with borders. Silk rosettes and printed marble are lingering details of her debut Fendi show. Delicate knits are featured in coordinating ensembles, continuing the pullover-bra trend we’ve seen explode over the years Under the direction of Silvia Venturini Fendi, the show also launched a new bag silhouette, the Fendi First, at alongside intimate icons such as the Peekaboo and the Sunshine Shopper.
“I take the amazing, strong women I know and work with, and listen to their needs,” says Jones.
The neutral palette is a collection of separate pieces to create a complete wardrobe for the Fendi woman, who could create an outfit by blindly ripping anything from this runway. It’s a hands-on approach to clothing, reflecting the time without sacrificing the opulent nature of fashion itself. We’re still fully understanding the scope of Jones’ perspective as a designer of women’s clothing, but it’s clear that her debut ready-to-wear collection is sexy and strong, clean and wearable.
“Fun isn’t always about bright colors,” Jones says. “It can be a truly affluent conceit, which attracts to the wearer more than anyone else.” In other words, nourish yourself.
