As the world opens up, event dressing is a priority. But the running theory that we’re all about to step out in ball gowns and tuxedos not only seems far-fetched, but inconsistent with what revelers will actually wear. Anthony Vaccarello of Saint Laurent got it right.
Located in an unknown place (Iceland? Antarctica?) From which Vaccarello wishes to remain silent, the Parisian workshop presented its winter 2021 collection in an epic context. With a dramatic soundtrack and scenic scenes of iceberg-strewn beaches, eerie cliffs, the fog disperses as models walk by like creatures of the night still wearing last night’s outing looks. It is a shocking experience reminiscent of a walk of shame, but without embarrassment. The juxtaposition is sharp, supporting being out of your element in a post-pandemic world.
“Serious things make you take other things less seriously, finding balance while staying on top is a sophisticated skill,” Vaccarello said in the collection notes. The harsh landscape offset by the light-weight clothing begs the obvious question: who won’t feel weird wearing an evening dress in 2021?
The new urge to experiment with our style once out of containment is going to look like this: a little weird, very playful, and who knows, maybe you’ll regret wearing a metallic leotard, but you’re going to do it anyway. The energizing part isn’t its frivolity – that’s what Vaccarello’s Saint Laurent has always been – but holding and subverting it. It’s not from the camp, it’s just an adult in a babydoll dress with bows. Hard stop. No questions asked, no explanation required.
The show was also not without its star-studded front row. Virtual attendees comprised of close friends of the brand: Charlotte Gainsbourg, Hailey Bieber, Indya Moore, Rosé, Zoe Kravitz, and more.
Adapting to new fashion needs is what almost every designer is preparing for, but Vaccarello talks about it both on the surface and on a carnal level. After this tough year, don’t we all metaphorically stumble in broad daylight awkwardly wearing last night’s outfits with stilettos stuck in the mud?
